Can lavender be grown from seed successfully, or is it difficult?

Growing lavender from seed successfully is definitely possible, but it is generally considered more challenging and requires more patience than propagating from cuttings. It's not "difficult" in an impossible sense, but it has specific requirements and can be slow.

Here's a breakdown of why it's considered more difficult and tips for success:

Why it's considered more difficult:

1. Low and Erratic Germination Rates: Lavender seeds don't all germinate at once, and some varieties have notoriously low germination percentages. You might sow many seeds and only get a few viable seedlings.

2. Long Germination Time: It can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months for lavender seeds to sprout, and sometimes even longer. This requires patience and consistent care for an extended period.

3. Specific Germination Requirements:

   • Light: Lavender seeds typically need light to germinate, so they should be surface-sown or barely covered. If buried too deep, they won't sprout.

   • Warmth: Consistent warmth (around 70-85°F or 21-29°C) is often recommended for germination, sometimes requiring a heat mat.

   • Cold Stratification (Often Recommended): Many lavender varieties benefit from a period of cold, moist conditions to break dormancy, mimicking winter. While some growers claim success without it, it generally improves germination rates significantly.

4. Slow Initial Growth: Even after germination, lavender seedlings grow very slowly in their first few months. They won't bloom in their first year from seed; it often takes 1-2 years to see flowers.

5. Not "True to Type": Unless you buy seeds specifically labeled as an open-pollinated variety, lavender grown from seed (especially hybrids like Lavandin) may not produce plants identical to the parent plant from which the seeds were collected. Cuttings, on the other hand, are genetic clones.

Tips for Successful Lavender Seed Germination:

If you're up for the challenge, it can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to get many lavender plants, especially if you want specific varieties not easily found as plants.

1. Choose the Right Seeds:

   • English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) varieties like 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', or especially the 'Ellagance' series, are generally considered the easiest to germinate from seed and are more reliable.

   • Source fresh, reputable seeds. Old seeds have lower viability.

2. Cold Stratification (Highly Recommended):

   • This mimics winter conditions. There are a few ways:

     • Paper Towel Method: Place seeds on a damp (not soaking wet) paper towel, fold it, put it in a sealed plastic bag, and refrigerate for 3-6 weeks.

     • Sand/Peat Mix: Mix seeds with a small amount of damp sand or peat moss in a sealed plastic bag or container and refrigerate for 3-6 weeks.

     • Winter Sowing (Outdoor): In suitable climates, you can sow seeds in containers outdoors in late fall/early winter and let nature provide the stratification. This method relies on consistent cold temperatures.

3. Use a Sterile, Well-Draining Seed Starting Mix:

   • Lavender hates wet feet, even as a seedling. Use a mix specifically designed for seedlings that has good drainage (e.g., with perlite or coarse sand). Avoid heavy potting soils.

4. Surface Sow or Lightly Cover:

   • Scatter the tiny seeds on the surface of your prepared, moistened seed-starting mix.

   • Gently press them into the soil for good contact. You can lightly sprinkle a very thin layer of fine sand or vermiculite over them, but ensure they still receive light.

   • Do not bury them deep.

5. Provide Consistent Warmth:

   • A bottom heat mat set to around 70-85°F (21-29°C) significantly improves germination rates and speed.

6. Ensure Ample Light:

   • Place your seed trays under strong grow lights (fluorescent or LED) for 12-16 hours a day immediately after sowing, or in a very bright, sunny window (though grow lights provide more consistent intensity).

7. Maintain Consistent Moisture (But Not Wetness!):

   • Keep the seed starting mix consistently moist, like a wrung-out sponge.

   • Use a fine mist sprayer to water, or bottom-water by placing the tray in a shallow pan of water until the surface darkens. Avoid overhead watering with a strong stream, which can dislodge tiny seeds.

   • A clear plastic dome or plastic wrap over the tray can help maintain humidity, but vent it daily to prevent mold.

8. Patience is Key:

   • Don't give up if you don't see sprouts immediately. Some seeds can take weeks to appear.

9. Thin and Transplant Carefully:

   • Once seedlings have their first set of true leaves (the second set of leaves after the initial cotyledons), you can gently thin them or transplant them into individual small pots (2-4 inches) with a well-draining potting mix.

   • Be extremely gentle with the delicate roots.

10. Harden Off:

    • Before planting outdoors, gradually acclimate your seedlings to outdoor conditions (sun, wind, varying temperatures) over 7-14 days. This process is called "hardening off" and prevents transplant shock.

While it demands more effort and patience than cuttings, successfully growing lavender from seed can be a rewarding experience, especially when you see those tiny, fragrant seedlings emerge!

Lavender Farm in Door County Wisconsin. You can buy lavender products online at islandlavender.com