Propagating lavender from cuttings is a popular and effective method for gardeners because it produces new plants that are genetically identical to the parent plant (meaning they will have the same flower color, scent, growth habit, etc.). This is known as "true to type" propagation.
Here's a step-by-step guide on how to propagate lavender from cuttings:
1. Best Time to Take Cuttings:
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Softwood Cuttings (Most Common & Easiest): Take these in late spring to early summer (typically June to September in the Northern Hemisphere) when the plant is actively growing and new shoots are flexible but not overly soft or floppy. This new growth is green and still relatively soft.
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Semi-Hardwood Cuttings: Can be taken in mid to late summer. These stems are slightly more mature than softwood but still somewhat flexible.
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Hardwood Cuttings: Taken in fall or winter when the plant is dormant. These are more woody and take longer to root, with a lower success rate generally.
2. Prepare Your Tools and Materials:
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Sharp, Clean Pruning Shears or Knife: Sterilize them with rubbing alcohol to prevent disease transmission.
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Potting Mix: Use a well-draining, sterile potting mix. A good mix is usually equal parts perlite or coarse sand and potting soil, or a specialized seed-starting/propagation mix. Lavender hates wet feet, so good drainage is crucial even for cuttings.
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Pots or Trays: Small pots (2-4 inches), cell trays, or a propagation tray with drainage holes.
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Rooting Hormone (Optional but Recommended): Available as powder or gel. It significantly increases the success rate.
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Clear Plastic Bag or Propagation Dome: To create a humid environment (a mini-greenhouse effect).
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Pencil or Dibbler: To make holes in the soil.
3. Take the Cuttings:
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Select Healthy Stems: Choose strong, healthy, non-flowering stems from the current season's growth. Avoid stems with buds or flowers, as the plant's energy will be directed towards blooming rather than rooting. Look for a stem that is about 4-6 inches long.
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Make the Cut: Using your clean, sharp tool, make a clean cut just below a leaf node (the point where leaves emerge from the stem). This area contains cells that are more likely to form roots.
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"Heel" Cuttings (Optional but beneficial): For some types of lavender, if possible, gently pull a side shoot away from a main stem so it comes off with a small piece of the main stem attached (this is called a "heel"). The heel often contains dormant root initials.
4. Prepare the Cuttings:
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Remove Lower Leaves: Strip off all leaves from the bottom 1-2 inches of the cutting. This bare stem will be inserted into the rooting medium, and any leaves buried in the soil will rot.
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Dip in Rooting Hormone (Optional): If using, lightly moisten the cut end of the stem, then dip it into the rooting hormone powder or gel. Tap off any excess.
5. Plant the Cuttings:
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Moisten Soil: Lightly moisten your potting mix. It should be damp but not soggy.
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Make Holes: Use a pencil or dibbler to make small holes in the potting mix, about 1-2 inches deep. This prevents the rooting hormone from being rubbed off when you insert the cutting.
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Insert Cuttings: Carefully insert the prepared cutting into the pre-made hole, ensuring the bare stem is submerged. Gently firm the soil around the base of the cutting to ensure good contact. You can place several cuttings in one pot, but ensure their leaves don't touch to allow for air circulation.
6. Create a Humid Environment:
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Cover the Pot/Tray: Place a clear plastic bag over the pot(s) or use a propagation dome. This traps humidity, which is crucial for preventing the cuttings from drying out while they are trying to form roots (they don't have roots to absorb water yet!).
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Support the Bag: If using a plastic bag, use stakes or pencils to keep the bag from touching the leaves.
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Ventilation: Open the bag or dome occasionally (every few days) for a few minutes to allow for air exchange and prevent excessive condensation, which can lead to mold or rot.
7. Provide the Right Environment for Rooting:
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Light: Place the potted cuttings in a bright location with indirect sunlight. Direct, hot sun can cook the cuttings under the plastic. A north-facing window, a shaded spot outdoors, or under grow lights are good options.
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Temperature: Aim for a consistent temperature between 65-75°F (18-24°C).
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Moisture: Keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy. Check the soil regularly. If you see condensation inside the bag/dome, you might not need to water as frequently. Overwatering at this stage is still a major cause of failure.
8. Be Patient and Check for Roots:
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Rooting Time: Lavender cuttings typically take 2-6 weeks to root, though some varieties or conditions may take longer. Hardwood cuttings can take months.
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How to Check: After 2-3 weeks, you can gently tug on a cutting. If you feel resistance, it means roots have started to form. You might also see new leaf growth appearing on the cutting, which is a good sign. Avoid pulling too hard.
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Transitioning: Once rooted, gradually acclimate the new plants to lower humidity by opening the bag/dome for longer periods each day over a week or two.
9. Transplanting:
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Once the cuttings have a well-established root system (usually when they are resisting a gentle tug and showing new growth), they are ready to be transplanted into individual, slightly larger pots with a well-draining potting mix, or directly into the garden if conditions are right (e.g., after the last frost in spring, into well-drained soil in full sun). Be very gentle with the new roots during transplanting.
Propagating lavender from cuttings is a rewarding process that allows you to easily expand your lavender collection for free!
Lavender Farm in Door County Wisconsin. You can buy lavender products online at islandlavender.com