What are common mistakes new lavender growers make?

New lavender growers often make several common mistakes that can lead to disappointment or even plant failure. Lavender has specific needs that differ from many other garden plants, so understanding these is key to success.

Here are the most common mistakes and how to avoid them:

1. Overwatering: This is by far the most frequent killer of lavender plants, especially for new growers. Lavender is a drought-tolerant Mediterranean plant that thrives in dry conditions.

   • Mistake: Watering too frequently, providing too much water, or not letting the soil dry out between waterings. Symptoms often look like wilting or drooping, which can be confusingly similar to underwatering, leading to even more water being applied.

   • Solution: Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. For established plants in the ground, they may rarely need supplemental water except during prolonged dry spells. For container plants, check the soil moisture regularly by sticking your finger 2-3 inches deep; only water when it feels dry. When you do water, water deeply until it drains out the bottom.

2. Poor Drainage/Heavy Soil: Hand-in-hand with overwatering, unsuitable soil is a major problem.

   • Mistake: Planting lavender in heavy clay soil or any soil that retains too much moisture. This leads to root rot, as lavender roots need oxygen.

   • Solution: Lavender requires excellent drainage. Amend heavy soils generously with coarse sand, gravel, perlite, or pumice to improve porosity. If your soil is very heavy, consider planting in raised beds or mounds. For containers, use a gritty, fast-draining potting mix (e.g., 50% potting mix, 50% perlite/sand/grit) and a pot with ample drainage holes (preferably terracotta).

3. Not Enough Sun: Lavender loves sunshine and needs a lot of it.

   • Mistake: Planting lavender in a shaded or partially shaded location. This leads to leggy, weak growth, fewer flowers, and reduced fragrance.

   • Solution: Plant lavender in a spot that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct full sun per day. More is better. South-facing locations are often ideal.

4. Over-Fertilizing: Unlike many plants that benefit from rich soil and regular feeding, lavender prefers lean conditions.

   • Mistake: Adding too much fertilizer, especially those high in nitrogen. This encourages lush foliage growth at the expense of flowers and can make the plant "leggy" and prone to disease.

   • Solution: Lavender generally does not need fertilizer, especially once established. It gets all the nutrients it needs from native, un-amended soil. If your soil is extremely poor, a very light application of a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer (or compost, used sparingly for drainage improvement rather than fertility) can be applied in early spring, but often it's unnecessary.

5. Incorrect Pruning (or No Pruning): Pruning is vital for lavender's long-term health and appearance.

   • Mistake (No Pruning): Allowing lavender to grow unpruned leads to woody, leggy, sprawling plants with less vigor and fewer flowers, often splitting in the center.

   • Mistake (Pruning Too Hard): Cutting back into the old, woody, leafless stems. Lavender typically does not regenerate new growth from old wood, so severe pruning can kill the plant.

   • Solution: Prune lavender annually in early spring (after the last hard frost and when new growth appears) by cutting back about one-third of the plant's green growth, maintaining a rounded, compact shape. You can also deadhead spent blooms in summer to encourage more flowers. Always leave some green growth on each stem.

6. Planting the Wrong Variety for Your Climate: Not all lavenders are equally hardy.

   • Mistake: Choosing a tender variety (like French or Spanish lavender) for a cold climate (USDA Zone 7 or colder) and expecting it to survive winter outdoors.

   • Solution: Research the cold hardiness of lavender varieties. English lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) like 'Munstead' and 'Hidcote' are the most cold-hardy (Zone 5-9). Lavandins (L. x intermedia) are also quite hardy (Zone 5-9). If you're in a colder zone, provide winter protection or grow tender varieties in containers that can be moved indoors.

7. Planting Too Close Together:

   • Mistake: Crowding lavender plants. This inhibits air circulation, promoting fungal diseases, and causes competition for light and nutrients.

   • Solution: Provide adequate spacing based on the mature size of your chosen variety. Allow for air to flow between plants.

By avoiding these common pitfalls and understanding lavender's preferences for sun, excellent drainage, lean soil, and regular pruning, new growers can enjoy healthy, fragrant, and beautiful lavender plants for many years.

Lavender Farm in Door County Wisconsin. You can buy lavender products online at islandlavender.com